- November 1 - Mobile > Gulfport, Mississippi - Enjoyed the towns on the East Bay across from the city of Mobile, Alabama. The cheery town of Fairhaven has flowers everywhere, even on the trash cans, and a "thoughtfulness shoppe" with "angels and angel accessories". Saw a stretch of river populated by writers (Forrest Gump and Fried Green Tomatoes were written here) which is the only spot in the U.S. where mail is still delivered by boat. Passed the site of the first American Indian village visited by a white man (not counting the Vikings), a deputy of DuPont who arrived eighty-one years before the Pilgrims landed. Took a ferry across the Mobile Gulf and relished the soft, humid air and beautiful sunset.
This scene was typical along the coastlines of the South.
One of many oil rigs seen in the Mobile Gulf.
- November 2 - Gulfport > New Orleans, Luisiana - Rolled into N'awleans in the morning and found a hotel in the French Quarter Bruce had stayed at twelve years ago. Checked out the oldest active cathedral in the U.S. and the mighty Mississippi river before taking the St. Charles streetcar to the Garden District (Anne Rice's neighborhood). Had lunch at a cafe with no tables - all seats were at counters served by gregarious black waiters (the breeze "cools the body, cools the SOUL, cools the mind!"). Mint juleps in the afternoon at the piano bar of Pat O'Brien's - dual pianos and a character keeping rhythm with a tray of coins and thimble-clad fingertips.
That evening we browsed the French Market, attended a Mass at the St. Louis Cathedral (the oldest active cathedral in the U.S.), had a mufaletta sandwich and red beans for dinner and took in the jazz band at Preservation Hall before braving the crowds on Bourbon Street, where music spills into the night from almost every door.
The St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans' Jackson Square.
The St. Charles Avenue Streetcar in New Orleans.
- November 3 - New Orleans > Natchitoches, Louisiana - On the way out of New Orleans we stopped at one of the famed cemetaries. Among the startling jumble of above-ground crypts (the city is below sea level, so traditional graves would fill with water) there are some beautiful stones and statues. Drove west through swamps and canals in bayou country, listening to a cajun and oldies radio station, before swinging north. Arrived that night in Natchitoches (pronounced "NAK-i-tez", with syllables run together), home to our friend Prem Gongaju.
The courtyard of our hotel in the French Quarter of New Orleans.
As the city of New Orleans is located on land five to seven feet below sea level, graves must be set above ground.
A New Orleans cemetary crypt.
- November 4 - Natchitoches > Port Anthony, Texas - Our friend Prem insisted on showing us a drive-through liquor store in Natchitoches. Bruce was unimpressed at the concept, having seen vendors offering beverage pickup from one's car, but upon arriving it dawned on him that this store (and probably many other communities in the south) offer drive-through service of mixed alcoholic drinks which may be consumed in the car while driving around town! Prem ordered a Long Island Iced Tea, Jennifer had a Hurricane and Bruce drank Sprite.
Crossed from Louisiana into Texas down dark, tree-lined roads in a pouring rain. Made it to the Gulf of Mexico coastline after dark and were greeted by oil refineries, immense tangles of pileline and fire glowing like futuristic cities. We were to see many more refineries elsewhere in Texas.
Prem Krishna Gongaju under a Live Oak tree at the Louisiana School for Arts, Math and Sciences.
Past the ghostly visage of Bruce is the interior of a drive-through liquor store and bar in Natchitoches, Louisiana. Drinks such as Hurricanes and Long Island Ice Teas may be purchased from the comfort of your vehicle and and consumed whilst driving away.
- November 5 - Port Anthony > Cuero, Texas - Many more pelicans (see October 24) seen as we took a ferry to Galveston, a town half beachfront and half near-century old victorian mansions and churches. A hurricane in 1900 destroyed much of the town and claimed 6000 lives, but a few older buildings of note survived. Attended Mass at an elegant white Catholic church (we're not turning Catholic, we just like spending time in exceptional churches). Drove along the Gulf coast through more communities with stilt-elevated houses and oil refineries, before turning inland and heading for San Antonio.
- November 6 - Cuero > Austin, Texas - Spent most of the day in San Antonio, but, for the record, we DID NOT visit the Alamo. We did, however, visit the four other missions on the San Antonio Mission Trail: Mission Conception, Mission San Jose, Mission San Juan Capistrano and Mission La Espada. These missions, all established between 1690 and 1731, offer an excellent overview of Spanish missionary efforts to convert Indian tribes and establish European-style civilization in this part of the continent. They vary in size and condition, but all are impressive and are must-sees for church fanatics (like us). Mission Conception, built in 1731, is the oldest stone church in the U.S.
Mission Conception.
Mission San Jose.
On the facade of the Mission San Jose.
- November 7 - Austin - Spent election day morning at the Lyndon B. Johnson Library, a great follow-up to the JFK Library in Boston. Toured the interior of the Texas Capital before attending what was to be George W. Bush's victory celebration in front of the Capital. It was interesting being surrounded by a mixture of Bush supporters, Texas police and Secret Service agents. The rally included speeches, music (led off by a BAD mariachi band) and occasional reports by CNN which were met by the expected cheers or boos as states were announced for a particular candidate. A BBC correspondent asked us if we would consent to an interview - in low voices we admitted that we're Gore supporters who had crashed the party. We left mid-evening to meet our friend Lorel at a great Tex-Mex restaurant staffed entirely, it seemed, by Gore supporters. Clienteles' and staffs' eyes were glued to the TV over the bar showing CNN. Little did we know how the election would proceed during the night...
- November 8 - Austin > Fort Stockton, Texas - Mostly just drove from central to western Texas (it's a BIG state), but we did stop at the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historic Park in Johnson City, President Johnson's birthplace and the town he retired to after leaving the White House.
Display at the LBJ National Historic Park.
- November 9 - Fort Stockton > Alamogordo, New Mexico - Shortly after leaving Texas we stopped at the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens, a New Mexico state park with trails featuring Southwest flora and fauna. The zoo displays of the larger animals such as bison and elk were a bit sad, but we enjoyed the antics of the prairie dogs.
Words to live by.
Out of Texas, into New Mexico.
Figuring the Truth would be In There, we made the pilgrimage to the International UFO Museum and Research Center in Roswell, New Mexico. Recently moved to a former movie theater (marquee intact), the museum is full of documents offering evidence of a U.S. government cover-up of an alien crash landing in 1947, as well as accounts of other UFO sightings and encounters. We met the founder: Lt. Walter G. Haut, the former Public Relations Officer at the Roswell Army Air Field who under orders wrote the 1947 public statement stating that the object which crashed was a weather baloon. The serious is mixed with the toungue-in-cheek - one gallery displays UFO-related cartoons, and there's a "UFO Parking" sign outside.
The International UFO Museum and Research Center in Roswell, New Mexico.
Exclusive photo of ACTUAL ALIEN at the International UFO Museum and Research Center in Roswell, New Mexico. (Well, not really, but photos of this same figurine were presented as evidence of a government cover-up in a Penthouse Magazine article in the 1980s - a copy of the article is on display only a few feet away.)
- November 10 - Alamogordo > Willcox, Arizona - Passed by the White Sands Missile Range (hoped to visit the museum, but it was closed for Veteran's Day) on the way to the town of Truth or Consequences (or "T or C", as it's known by locals). Followed the winding mountain roads which wind through the Gila National Forest. On the way down out of the mountains, we helped a driver whose truck was stuck in a dry river bed. Drove through the old and historic village of Pinos Altos (complete with cowboy-era opera house) just north of Silver City. Crossed into Arizona and stopped in the town of Willcox - what's with the extra "L"?
Truth or Consequences New Mexico.
In the Gila National Forest.
- November 11 - Willcox > Tucson, Arizona - A lovely drive through desert hills took us to the Mexican border town of Nogales. We parked the car on the U.S. side and walked across the border to shop in the market with its tiny booths and aggressive vendors. After much haggling we returned to the U.S. with a silver-plated cross and a burgundy rug.
Looking over into Nogales in Mexico from the U.S. side.
In line to return to the U.S. from Nogales.
On the way north we visited the ruins of the Tumacacori mission before stopping at La Paloma de Tubac, THE place to buy Mexican-style pottery, santos (saints) and jewlery.
You know you're in the Southwest when... At La Paloma de Tubac market in Tubac, Arizona.
Attended an early-evening mass at the Mission San Xavier on the southern outskirts of Tucson. This mission is still active and its 1797 church has the most ornate interior we've seen since our trips to Spain.
Mission San Xavier.
- November 12 - Tucson - Our friend Merry led us through a fabulous Tucson day: we walked nature trails in a desert park, ate and shopped on laid-back 4th street and viewed exhibits at the Center for Creative Photography at the University of Arizona. Merry's cats and a fire in the fireplace capped off a perfect day.
With our friend Merry in Tucson.
An unusual saguaro cactus...or a Martian?!?
- November 13 - Tucson > Phoenix, Arizona - Our friend Ty drove us to the Saguaro National Park West with its hillsides covered with thousands of saguaro cacti. After an afternoon of errands, we reluctantly left Tucson and drove to Phoenix.
In the Saguaro National Park West.
- November 14 - Phoenix > Flagstaff, Arizona - Frank Lloyd Wright architecture was the theme of the day. Wright's Taliesin West in Scottsdale is the western counterpart to Wisconsin's Taliesin East (see October 3) and is the winter campus of his architectural school. The buildings, while dramatic in design, seem to melt into the desert and demonstrate well Wright's principle of constructing not ON the land, but OF the land. [To be added: accounts of the stately Phoenix Biltmore hotel and the First Christian Church.]
Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin West.
The Phoenix Biltmore Hotel.
- November 15 - Flagstaff > Kingman, Arizona - Old Route 66 and the Grand Canyon!
Bruce standing on the rim of the Grand Canyon.
